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The impact of Covid-19 on the fashion industry
April 30, 2020

The impact of Covid-19 on the fashion industry

What's happening now?


The world on the other side of Coronavirus (Covid-19 or Covid) is still an unknown but hotly discussed topic. For the fashion industry, Covid has left retailers struggling as supplier chains unravel, high-street stores are failing behind closed doors and brands are unable to stay afloat. But it goes deeper than that, Covid has shone a glaring light on some of the top brand’s ethical practices, and the results are less than pleasing. 


Not only has Covid seen the sudden closure of some big brands, but it has impacted every part of the fashion production process. Countries like Bangladesh and Cambodia, where many clothing factories are based, are feeling the economic strain. Whereas, back in the UK, brands like Primark are cutting costs where possible, cancelling forward orders and refusing to pay rent on their storefronts.


Historically, high-street and fast fashion brands have been grown through mass production and customer demand - hardly the most sustainable of practices. Yet, once shops close and consumers stop buying, what happens to those shops? We’ve seen large-scale companies close their doors and abandon their factories, leaving thousands without pay or job security. Factories which they don’t own but relied upon for their garments, factories they now have no value for. This directly impacts workers in countries which do not have security of our NHS and social support. 


What’s more is that the companies that own the factories have already paid for the materials (and in many cases the cutting and manufacturing as well) when orders have been outright cancelled, meaning suppliers are left dangerously out of pocket. Traditionally they work on very small margins, owing to the ruthlessness of fast fashion brands that play their suppliers off one against the other, so they are under existential risk.


What will happen next?


Post isolation and, with hope, post-Covid-19 there will be a change in the fashion industry, with a push towards practices that are sustainable, ethical and have humans at the core. 

Take, for example, global fashion shows, a change that has been on the cards long before lockdown. According to a Zero to Market report, “A retailer will fly an average of 19,214 kilometres (nearly 12,000 miles) every year to attend showrooms at fashion weeks” that is twice the average travel of a global citizen. This increase in carbon footprinting sparks the question, how necessary is this travel? More importantly, are there more sustainable changes we can make? These discussions were all theories until Covid isolation saw the shut down of travel, now the fashion industry is forced to digitise and change, as are our expectations. At last, the BFC has moved to a digitised fashion show event this summer, forced to do so by Covid-19.


We can see that values that were once considered necessary, no longer hold their ground in the new isolated world, and once we re-emerge, how different will society be? Our focus will shift towards considerations of the planet, how we can live more responsibly and how we can use technology to help us to do so. From being able to buy products locally, to companies upholding ethical practices, things will change.


Here at Culthread we are currently testing a solution to this in our factories in Vietnam. We are training our designers to use  CLO 3D fashion design software software whereby designs can be shown on digital bodies for review. This will allow us to make changes to garments digitally, and reduce  our carbon footprint considerably by ensuring samples are not flying around the world for approval.

 

How will the industry need to adapt?

Post-Covid, fashion will need to show its worth in a society that is no longer about spending as much as it can as fast as possible. Companies will need to strengthen their supply chain, working with the countries and people who own these factories to secure better pay, standards and expectations. The global fashion industry- will have to slow their rate of production, using the internet and global links above leaving large carbon footprints.


The way we engage with products will need to change too. The high-street will need a re-invention from the bargain sales and mass production sweeps to provide quality and sustainability that customers are willing to invest in. The suppliers of fast fashion brands, many in countries such as Bangladesh, are heavily hit by Covid cancellations, and may never recover from these losses. Stores and production lines will need to become more conscious of what they are creating. We have turned a corner where holding mountains of stock and working on items 6-12 months in advance has become antiquated, wasteful and out of line with how people are feeling.


Post-Covid consumption will not only change at face value, but it will force companies to become transparent or suffer ostracisation from buyers. Consumers will be more engaged and vocal about where their products are sourced, seeing a shift from fast fashion to sustainable fashion.  Encouraging companies, to be honest about their values, whether in factory conditions, the life cycle of a product or in the materials used. Post-Covid fashion will call for a more honest brand-consumer relationship. With less than 1% of the material used to produce clothing being recycled into new clothing, according to A New Textiles Economy report, companies will be pushed to consider longer life cycles of their products. As well as the economic cost of disposal, which currently sits at the estimated cost of £82 million per year.


Which brands will thrive, and which will suffer?

The fear now is that, as always, those with the most power and connections will rule the industry. An example of this sits with one of the largest online shopping platforms, Amazon. Amazon has utilised its global distribution network to transfer medical goods, as well as everyday shopping needs. They will become even more powerful as fashion brands who previously shunned them come to consider the vast platform as a means of survival. 


Although this will mean more efficient use of technology to distribute within society, this could also see the disappearance of small brands and designers, who are unable to pay Amazon’s cut, compete with mass production, mass connection and mass scale that larger conglomerates can provide. The only way to prevent this is to call for transparency across all aspects of online shopping, to encourage larger brands to be held accountable as us smaller brands are.

 

What will brands need to do to survive?


It is no shock, then, that there will be a selection of brands and companies that will succeed naturally in the Post-Covid fashion world. The sustainable, vegan or ethically transparent fashion brands which truly look after the humans they employ, will see a rise in engagement and appreciation. Those who are openly cruelty-free and ethically run will be written about and focussed on more. This will include support for practices that can last through changing economic situations. Ethics will become nearly as important as aesthetics when it comes to fashion, and brands will need to respond to that.


Online practices are becoming a norm, as is shopping within people’s means. Although post-Covid may see people returning to spending money on luxury items, many traits around online shopping and more tactful shopping will remain. An affiliation will form with brands that were present and transparent through the crisis.

 

What we can do as consumers?

In the post-covid world, there are a few things consumers can do and a lot that companies can do to support this change.


First, be vocal and clear about what values you hold. This Pandemic has shown that the key to a successful fashion industry is the consumers. As consumers, we need to be vocal and clear about the things we expect to see. Demand that retailers have ethical practices, source sustainable materials and value every part of their production process


For us, Culthread uses only recycled cruelty-free Peta approved materials, ‘deadstock’ and other stock materials - so new fabric is never produced for Culthread jackets.


Next, push the brands you like to be transparent. As consumers we hold the power in our wallets, so let’s call for companies to show their documentation of what is going on in factories. Push for visibility with working conditions, ask for transparency on what they do and what they use. By pushing for a focus on the human element of fashion we can recreate an industry that focuses on creating good, long-lasting products rather than simply making money. At Culthread, we are proud to work with our small privately-owned factories, as equals. 




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Wardrobe Decluttering Tips!
February 05, 2020

Wardrobe Decluttering Tips!

Out with the old, in with the new! New year is a great time to declutter and make space for what comes next. Even if your new year’s resolution is to consume more consciously, or to buy less, clearing away items that you do not need reduces clutter and will enable you to feel more organised and help you be more efficient - your home is a living space, not a storage space after all. Here are a few decluttering and fashion organizing tips from the culthread team to help you get through the process.

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How to make your clothing last
December 09, 2019

How to make your clothing last

Through living through the statement "Buy less, Choose well, Make it last", we hope to create a healthier relationship with consumption through methods such as reducing our carbon footprint and consumption for the greater good. Here are our top tips on how to make your garments last from day one!

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5 ways to ensure you’re making conscious purchasing decisions
November 20, 2019

5 ways to ensure you’re making conscious purchasing decisions

It’s that time of the year when the festive season starts and the holiday sales begins. Gift wrapping is complimentary and gift set combinations are endless. Before the offer tags pull you in to pull out your wallet, it’s really important to be more mindful when consuming as it’s so easy to get lost in the discounts and bundles.


Conscious consumerism refers to making positive choices throughout consumption, with the intention to help balance negative impacts that consumerism has on the planet to an extent, examples include buying locally grown produce (lowering carbon footprint), fairtrade chocolate or using toiletries and products made from a natural source, as well as supporting ethical businesses.


With Black Friday upon us, we’re here to give you a few culthread tips on being a more conscious consumer in the midst of the sales frenzy!


Look out for certified companies


From Fairtrade to B Corp, there are certifications of companies which you can look out for in order to know that your purchases are investing into companies that takes pride in making sure their standards of impact on all factors from the environment to workers to customers are upheld (social responsibility!). Certified B Corporations are defined as “businesses that meet the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability to balance profit and purpose”. These communities work towards creating a healthier environment and purposeful impact of their brand, whether it is to their employees, customers or as simple as mother earth.


Interested in knowing what companies and brands are classified as B Corp? Check out the online directory here! Our culthread favourites are teapigs (quality real tea with over 100 Great Taste Awards) and Pip & Nut (a must have in our pantry!).


Understanding the background story


When we were younger we were taught the 5-W’s and 1-H: What, Who, Where, When, Why and How, and this is a principle that can be taken to any context and most definitely our journey in consumption. When you’re out at a restaurant, aside from picking what your heart desires from the menu, find out where the restaurant sources their produce demonstrates conscious consumerism. When shopping for a cashmere jumper, is the brand transparent about where the fabric comes from? Brands like NAADAM, a US-based cruelty free cashmere fashion brand, allows customers to be a part of their purchasing journey by showing them who they work with in Mongolia and how they give back to the herders, charity and environment. Looking beyond the fabric and materials, are you in the loop of how companies treat their workers? Research through available resources on how companies treat their workers, are they paid at least a living wage? Are they working reasonable (and humane) hours? Are their working conditions of a certain standard? Child labour and human rights violations should not be tolerated and it is vital for us as consumers to educate ourselves and consider these facts in the process of consumption.


Embracing Quality…


In the process of producing artificial and man-made materials such as polyester greenhouse gases are emitted into our atmosphere, contributing to global warming. Whilst organic materials still account for emissions and climate change, we need to look at the bigger picture as consumers. The increase in consumption and demand feeds into the increase in production, therefore we need to consume better and smarter. Purchasing items that are of a higher quality will last you longer (hello lower cost per wear!) thus keeps demand and production under control. 


It is natural to be drawn to an attractive price tag, but be sure to also know that cheap does not always (most likely not) equate to fairness to all stakeholders.


...and questioning quantity


Making conscious purchasing decisions isn’t a yes/no answer to the question “do I need this?”, but rather the effort put into rethinking what you currently own and the process of purchasing. Is the demand purely a necessity or are there ways for us to change or upgrade what we already own? Take a pair of jeans with a small hole in them, for example, do we need to buy a new pair can the issue be solved by simply taking it to the seamstress? Or using one of those nifty hotel sewing kits to stitch them up ourselves?


Small steps


One of our favourite sayings goes: “It is better to take many small steps in the right direction than to make a great leap forward only to stumble backwards”. 


With endless ways to reach the overall goal of consuming better and smarter, it is tempting to be the heroine and want to do it all. The truth is that when there’s too much to be addressed, it would take a small village to manage and execute it all. Our best advice is to start small, and embrace the imperfections along the way.


Being more conscious when making a purchasing decision is doing anything beyond observing the label. It is about asking yourself questions about the brand as well as the industry, and being crystal clear about your values. At culthread we’re committed to making jackets and accessories that will last a lifetime, as well as using recycled materials that would otherwise end up in our oceans or in landfill. Our mission is to show the world that we can create beautiful things that last from man made and recycled materials. Thank you for being part of our journey.



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How to live sustainably in London
October 30, 2019

How to live sustainably in London

Culthread is an eco-conscious fashion brand conceived in London, a city loved by most for its rich culture, much-celebrated heritage and the wonderful people who live and visit here - we love it so much we even named our styles by the different neighbourhoods of the city! Implementing changes to lead a sustainable life isn’t likely to be something that can be done within a day: it takes small steps, practice and building a routine in order for it to be fully integrated into our lifestyle. There are multiple ways for us to start being more sustainable whilst living in the city, check out our culthread tips here!

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Culthread: our story
September 04, 2019

Culthread: our story

 

I remember opening my cupboard on multiple occasions to look for a jacket with a hood in case it rained, pockets large enough for my phone, wallet and keys (preferably on the inside) as well as outside pockets for my hands and a high enough neck to keep me warm … was that too much to ask? The struggle was real. I usually gave up and headed out ‘coatless’ in desperation, even in the middle of winter.


That was when the idea for culthread first came about. I was so sick of searching for the perfect jacket that I decided to make one myself.


At the time, I was working as CFO of our family business, starting my DBA at Warwick Business School and playing squash competitively (all on top of looking after my mum as much as I could, and occasionally making sure my two twenty-something year old kids were happy and healthy). Culthread started as a passion project, but quickly developed into much more than that.


In the process of moodboarding, drawing and dreaming up what the first collection would look like, I did a huge amount of research. The more I read, the more disgusted I was with the amount of animal products in garments, and the lack of accountability in the animal product supply chain. This spurred the decision to make my jackets free from all animal derived products. I found companies that could supply me with gorgeous high quality faux fur, so I saw my opportunity to show the world that I could create a truly beautiful coat without hurting animals, and I took it.


After my first collection, I realised that my values had evolved. A vegan brand was only the beginning; I wanted culthread to be a sustainable brand. This meant using recycled materials whenever possible, and ultimately recyclable materials as well. One of the biggest challenges I’ve faced this year has been sourcing the best quality materials, especially the recycled ones. From day one I’ve refused to compromise on quality, but the reality is that there are still only a few recycled fabric suppliers that sell fabrics that I consider good enough for culthreads; the process has been difficult, but seeing the Hampstead jackets come to life has made the struggles worthwhile.


One of my biggest learnings over the last two years has been that there’s always more to learn! My husband and I have been in the garment manufacturing business for many years, but starting from scratch and creating a brand that’s both vegan and sustainable has been a completely new challenge. He’s been my sounding board and has helped me a lot along the way, as have both of my children in many ways. They’re here to listen to my struggles, offer me advice when I need it and they’ll always be the first to commend me on my hard work and determination.


Looking to the future, I’m excited to grow the collection and continue creating the most beautiful vegan, sustainable women’s outerwear on the market. With technology constantly improving alongside the demand for more sustainable fabrics and processes increasing, I’m confident that culthread will continue to evolve. I met a wonderful stylist at Bare Fashion last month who said to me “I know it’s hard but don't forget you are a pioneer”. This has really stuck with me, and I’m determined to continue pioneering for years to come.


The culthread motto is “no cruel, all craze”. For me that means no animal or environmental cruelty, rather integrity, quality and gorgeousness. We hope you enjoy wearing our jackets as much as we have enjoyed making them.


With love,


Rina

Founder of culthread

 

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Making clothes out of recycled plastic: The new sustainable trend
July 19, 2019

Making clothes out of recycled plastic: The new sustainable trend

Let’s talk about plastic (yes, again). The same plastic that’s piling up in landfill because it takes upwards of 500 years to degrade (if it degrades at all) and that’s destroying our oceans.


In 1950, the world produced 2 million tonnes of plastic yearly. By 2015, annual production had increased nearly 200-fold, to 381 million tonnes. This exponential increase isn’t set to slow down any time soon. During this time we’ve seen a huge increase in the use of polyester (aka plastic) in the manufacture of clothing, and, more specifically, in fast fashion, since the fabric is cheap to produce. Find out more about the impact that fast fashion is having on our planet here.


Currently, almost half of the world’s clothing is made of polyester, which is an energy-hungry, non-sustainable synthetic fibre. Our vision at Culthread is one of sustainability, and we made a promise early on to be as sustainable as possible, investing in recycled materials which we use instead of virgin polyester and animal products such as traditional down.


Using Ecodown


Making high quality vegan jackets is no easy task, it took us a long time to find materials to replace down and fur without any compromise on warmth, touch, weight and quality. We discovered Thermore Ecodown, made from 100% recycled post-consumer plastic bottles. Every jacket made with Ecodown allows recycling of upto 10 plastic bottles which otherwise would have ended up in landfill. We’ve tried and tested how Ecodown feels (even out on the slopes!), so we can tell you first hand that it does a great job in terms of being light, warm and super soft.

 

close up of recycled plastic jacket

Shop our Hamsptead Jacket made with EcoDown here. Available in black, silver and sand, while stocks last.

 

Recycled polyester


As well our Ecodown insulation, we use 100% recycled polyester for the lining and outer shell of our brand new Hampstead jackets (launching in September 2019). There are many benefits to using recycled rather than virgin polyester materials, including:


  • Less plastics going to landfill or ending up in our oceans, as our suppliers use plastic bottles that would otherwise be thrown away to make the fabric that we use for our coats
  • It takes less resources to make the fabric, which is similar to virgin polyester in terms of quality. It’s production requires 59% less energy than that of new polyester according to a 2017 study by the Swiss Federal Office for the Environment. Plus, it’s manufacturing process doesn’t include the extraction of crude oil and natural gas from our planet

One of the downsides of recycled polyester clothing is that it sheds more microfibres when washed than virgin polyester. These end up passing through our sewers and into the ocean where they’re eaten by plankton and eventually move their way up the food chain and onto our dinner plates. To find out more about this, head over to our blog post about fast fashion. Culthread Hampstead jackets need little to no cleaning - if they get dirty just wipe them down with a damp cloth (they can also be dry cleaned - just look for an Eco-friendly dry cleaner near you that doesn't use perchloroethylene or ‘perc’).

 

close up of culthread logo on jacket

Shop our black Hampstead jacket here

 

The process by which recycled polyester is made is as follows:


  • Collecting once used clear plastic such as water bottles, sterilizing, drying and breaking it up into small chips.
  • Heating the chips and passing them through a spinneret to form strings of yarn which is then wound up in spools.
  • The fibre is then passed through a crimping machine which creates a fluffy, wooly texture.
  • Finally, the yarn is baled, dried and knitted into polyester fabric.


We’re doing our best to make the world see that we don’t need to be making clothing out of plastics and animal products. We have the technology and resources do things differently, and we need to do so now more than ever. It’s still much more expensive to make recycled polyester than it is to make it new, so we’re a long way from seeing fast fashion brands adopt the more environmentally friendly alternative.


Our mission is to share this information far and wide so that as many people as possible adopt a smarter view on fashion and shopping. We’ve written about our top tips on how to live more sustainably, if you’d like to read on, head over to our blog.



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Pockets and sexism - a history
July 04, 2019

Pockets and sexism - a history

“Men have pockets to keep things in, women for decoration,” Christian Dior famously stated in 1954. Pockets were for functionality, and women had no need for such a thing. It was a different time… right?

Now it's the 21st century and pockets still remain an uncommon addition to women’s fashion. All girls have been in this situation. You’re wearing a pretty dress, another girl comes up to you and compliments you on it, saying “Wow, what a lovely dress!”. You turn and beam at her excitedly, exclaiming “Thank you!! And it has POCKETS!!!”, proceeding to slip your hands inside them and demonstrate exaggeratedly. Her face lights up and you spend a few moments gleefully admiring the wondrous inclusion of pockets in the summer dress and their unfathomably large size, big enough for… A PHONE. And… A WALLET. Miracle of miracles!

 

17th Century

Pockets started to appear in men’s clothing in the 1600s, however internal pockets were nowhere to be found on women’s dresses. Women resorted to wearing small sacks tied around their waists under their petticoats in order to carry their possessions. However, access to these sacks were not exactly easy. A lot of layers were involved in women’s clothing at the time – and we really do mean A LOT. Women wore gowns, under which they wore a petticoat, with an underpetticoat beneath, and a shift beneath that. A lot of layers to fumble through to reach that small pouch!


18th Century

Women started to get creative with their pocket-sacks and embroidered them with all manners of floral patterns and stitching embellishments. There was a breakthrough with the accessibility issue as well – slits in the gowns! Women could easily slide their hands through the slits in their dresses to reach into the sacks for their belongings. 

 

19 Century

The voluminous gowns of the previous centuries are replaced by a slimmer silhouette akin to the bodycon dress phenomenon of modern times. The larger skirts were traded for more figure-hugging dresses, which thus did not allow for nifty pocket pouches. Men, on the other hand, still had the luxury of slipping their hands into their shirt or pant pockets to reach their belongings. Women now resorted to a type of small handbag called a reticule that barely even fit some coins. They were completely useless and did not serve the function they were intended for. The reticules were more a status symbol than anything else, as the men were the ones who handled the money and property and well-off women would of course leave all the business and money handling to the men, rendering pockets unnecessary.

 

20th Century

Women started to rebel in the late 1800s with a rising popularity in pocket-sewing instruction manuals, as women sought after independence. Public outrage was ignited when women started to wear trousers. The audacity of having some more fabric on our legs! How dare women do such a thing! MADNESS. Controversy was high, but women finally were on the path to equality – we had trousers, and we had pockets! With the World Wars came more utilitarian and practical clothing, such as trousers with large pockets akin to those of men and more women entered the workforce. Marlene Dietrich, a QUEEN of utilitarian looks and oh-so-chic pockets was a pioneer for female equality, fought against sexual oppression and inspired countless fashion trends that we still love to this day. Modern icon Coco Chanel famously refused to ride a horse in a skirt and took the trousers off a male ride to wear as her own. A legend by all accounts! Triumph was, however, short-lived. As per usual, the world of men and fashion were obsessed with slimming down women’s figures in the name of “femininity”, thereby slimming down the silhouettes of the trousers women had fought so hard for. The loose-fitting “man-styles” women had been wearing during the war periods were replaced with skin-tight trousers, once again eliminating our beloved pockets. Sigh. (Also, the late 1990s trend of tight low-rise jeans did not help AT ALL with the pocket issue… sorry Britney Spears.)


21st Century

And thus we come to the modern day struggle against the patriarchy for equal pocket rights. There were moments where menswear-inspired pieces were trendy and women wore male slacks, but that quickly died down with the rise of the designer handbag industry. All of the high fashion maisons scrambled to create bags and pockets slipped further and further from their minds. Fast fashion trends have ranged from super tight skinny jeans to slim fit blazers, all the while excluding the one thing women have been desiring for centuries – pockets that are actually large enough to fit the belongings we carry around daily. The pockets we do have on our jeans or in our jackets can barely even fit our keys, not to mention the horrifying fake pockets found at the front of many jeans. Why even put them there?! Just another disappointment. Bags and pockets are shrinking while mobile phones are growing and the fashion industry NEEDS. TO. CATCH. UP. More and more celebrities are taking notice of the lack of pockets in everyday garments and make a statement in wearing pocketed gowns on red carpets. Gender-fluid lines and androgynous unisex fashion is slowly gaining popularity and we have seen a small but significant shift in what is considered “female fashion”. Change is definitely on its way, but very…very…slowly.

Comfortable, soft, easy-to-wear trousers with some nice BIG pockets at the front and the back. Yes, that’s what we want. And not the slightly insulting “boyfriend jeans” that insinuate we must have stolen our boyfriends’ pants to be wearing such loose trousers, but REAL equality in terms of pocket size and inclusivity in our everyday clothing. Men’s pockets are basically Mary Poppins’ bag in comparison with the teeny-tiny pockets in our trousers that I can barely squeeze my pinkie finger into. Enough of this madness!!

 

What do we want? EQUAL POCKET RIGHTS TO MEN. And we want them NOW.  



 

Sources:

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/a/history-of-pockets/

https://medium.com/verve-up/the-bewildering-and-sexist-history-of-womens-pockets-1edf3a98117

https://www.mic.com/articles/133948/the-weird-complicated-sexist-history-of-pockets

https://thetempest.co/2019/03/31/editors-picks/the-oppressive-history-of-womens-pockets/

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2018/aug/23/womens-pockets-size-jeans-fashion



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10 easy ways to live more sustainably
May 31, 2019

10 easy ways to live more sustainably

‘Our house is on fire’. The words of Greta Thunberg that reached tens of millions of people this year, stating that we so desperately need to change. Just by looking to make a positive lifestyle change, you’ve made the first step. Being a conscious consumer is not about being perfect, it’s about making a change, then making another change, and so on and so forth. Here are 10 small ideas for you to try to live more sustainably.

 

  1. Educate yourself.

 

‘‘Do the best you can until you know better. Then when you know better, do better” - Maya Angelou.
 

A perfect quote I found whilst reading a blog post by Sophie Tait. The basis to understanding is knowledge. Set aside an hour of your week and do a bit of research. You can start somewhere and these below ideas will definitely help you on your way, but continuing to improve your knowledge will enable you to keep doing better and better.

 

  1. ‘LESS’

 

A key word which kept popping up in most articles during the research for this was the word less. Forget about trying to be perfect, it’s practically impossible. Buy less, throw away less, use less plastic, drive less and so on. Always have this on your mind and just be aware.

 

  1. Think before you buy. Value quality over quantity.

 

We wrote about the environmental costs of fast fashion.

 

Think hard about every purchasing decision you make- how much value will the item you’re so desperately after bring to your life? A brilliant piece of advice from a quartz article is to ask yourself these 3 questions before making a purchase:

 

  1. How much will I wear it?

If you’re shopping for an outfit for a specific occasion, will you wear it again or will it end up folded in your drawer for months (or years, eek!)? Could you wear something you already have? Or ask a friend if they have something you can borrow?

 

  1. More of the same?

If you find yourself stood in a shop with a summer playsuit in your hand, count up how many you have at home before buying another. We’re creatures of habit, we tend to gravitate towards things that we like that may be similar to what we already have.

 

  1. Will it stand the test of time?

So you’ve found the perfect piece which made it past the first two hurdles. Is it made to last? Is the brand known for quality and longevity? Are the materials used durable?

 

For self diagnosed online shopping addicts reading this (you know who you are), we challenge you to keep a shopping basket or wish list tab open for two weeks. If you’re still as crazy about your items then the odds of you wearing them more often are much higher. Fight the urge to impulse buy.

 

  1. Don’t put your clothes in the bin!

 

Swap the bin liner for a charity bag and send your once loved items to someone in need or take them to your local textile recycling bank. Most large high street stores offer a service where you can take in bags of clothes for them to recycle. Or if you’re up for a bit of arts and crafts, transform them into something new!

 

  1. Have a ‘Clothes Swap’ party with your pals.

 

How many times do you wear a piece of clothing after buying it? Answer that truthfully. When was the last time you complimented a friend on their outfit? All the time right? Us too. It’s natural for us to lose interest in outfits that we’ve worn multiple times, even if they’re still pretty much good as new. Sharing clothes with friends will not only increase the number of times our clothes get worn, but we’ll also come away with a brand ‘new’ wardrobe. What’s not to love?

 

  1. Be conscious of how often you are washing your clothes.

 

Aside from using an average of 100L of water per wash, putting our used garms in domestic washing machines has a drastic negative effect on the planet. A lot of our clothes are made of polyester, which is essentially plastic. When polyester is washed, it sheds tiny bits of plastic that eventually end up in our oceans and get ingested by small fish like plankton.

 

There are some innovative companies making products which minimise the shedding of these microplastics, such as GUPPYFRIEND or Cora Ball. More simply, be conscious of how many times a week you’re using your washing machine. Make sure it’s full every time to minimise washes.

 

  1. Plastic wrap on your veggies at the shop... SAY NO.

 

It’s pretty easy to shop plastic free in the fruit and vegetable isle in most city supermarkets, but as Venetia Falconer says we might have to forgo buying condom cucumbers for a little while.

Search for markets or greengrocers near you, you’ll not only be able to purchase most if not all of your veggies plastic free, you’ll also be supporting a local or small business rather than a big supermarket chain.

 

  1. Find out where the products you love have come from

 

We’re not used to checking the origins of the products we buy as historically that information has never been available to us. With consumer interest in fair trade and sustainability growing fast, more and more companies are trying to be as transparent as they can with details of their supply chain and the origin of their products. One way to do this is by putting data on a Blockchain, which is essentially a way of storing data and product information in a completely secure and trustworthy way that is open to the public. Head to Provenance to find the most transparently sustainable products on the market.

 

  1. Get a keepcup for your coffee and a reusable bottle for your water or tea.

 

An investment that will benefit everyone in the long run, and you might even make the money back over time. Most coffee shops offer discounts for people who bring their own mugs- win win!

It’s very easy to feel like the only options are the really fancy and expensive bottles, but this isn’t the case at all. There are all sorts of different products on the market, ranging from high end Swell Bottles to reusable ones you can buy at Sports Direct.

 

  1. Keys, card, phone.. cutlery?

 

Keeping a set of cutlery with you everywhere you go (apart from through airports… of course!) will reduce waste from single use plastic equivalents. Better yet, preparing meals at home in reusable tupperware will save you money and is much better for the environment than a plastic wrapped sandwich.

 

girls eating doughnut

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The environmental impact of fast fashion
May 07, 2019

The environmental impact of fast fashion

Over the last few decades we’ve seen an international expansion of fast fashion retailers. As disposable incomes increase, so does our desire and ability to purchase more items of clothing. The more we consume, the cheaper it becomes for fast fashion retailers to produce, making high street fashion even less expensive and in turn encouraging us to consume even more. It’s a vicious cycle, for the people involved in production, those living in towns surrounding the big factories and for the environment.


We’re aware that our colourful clothes weren’t always those colours, textile producers have been dying clothing on an industrial scale since the 1970s. Dyes used to be natural, coming from clay, plants and other organic material but now the majority of dyes used in textile production are chemical based. Many of these chemicals produce waste which is toxic and ends up being disposed of in rivers near factories.


In a study done by Greenpeace of rivers in two industrial zones in China, they found that it’s incredibly difficult to trace which of the factories were the culprits of this water pollution. What’s needed to solve this problem is for brands to either properly investigate the manufacturers they work with or strictly ensure that they are not using any chemical dyes which produce toxic waste.


The two most popular fabrics used in garment production are cotton and polyester. Polyester is a man made material that is essentially a type of plastic. It became popular in the 1970s as  a miracle fibre that can be worn for 68 days straight without ironing, and still look presentable,”. Polyester is cheap to produce, and if you’re big on fashion you’ll know that it’s printed on most clothing labels, especially on the high street. What we now know about polyester garments is that when they’re washed in domestic washing machines, they shed microfibres that are passed out into the sewers and eventually end up in our oceans. These microfibres are a large contributor to the growing issue of plastic being found in our oceans. These fibres are small enough to be eaten by small creatures such as plankton, eventually making their way up the food chain to fish, shellfish and to us humans.


If our synthetic clothes don’t get recycled, they end up in landfill where it takes 1000s of years for them to decompose, alongside plastic straws and bottles.


Cotton is a naturally occuring fibre, but requires a huge amount of pesticides and water to grow (typically 10,000 litres to 1kg of cotton). The plants are typically grown in countries where water is a scarce resource, therefore damaging the country’s ecosystem and negatively affecting the people who live there.


To reduce the amount of pesticides needed to prevent crop failure and increase the amount of cotton yielded from each plant, scientists have developed a way to genetically modify the plants. But this can also lead to the emergence of “superweeds” which are resistant to standard pesticides. The plants then need to be treated with more toxic pesticides that are harmful to livestock and humans. The overall use of organic cotton is said to be around 1% of the world’s total cotton crop.


How can we help prevent further damage to farmers, their communities, land and resources?


Our ethos is all about swapping fast fashion for slow fashion; ethical, eco and lasting. We’re surrounded by ever changing shop windows and clothes from high street shops getting cheaper and cheaper, so we inevitably all have items deep in our wardrobes that we’ve forgotten about, or once loved and not worn for a while. Next time you’re stuck for something to wear, try shopping within your wardrobe instead of looking to buy something new. The more we wear the items we already have, the better.


There will come a time where we’ll crave some new-ness. We’ve been subconsciously force fed seasons, trends and styles that change every few months so it’s only normal we should feel the need to keep up. When branching outside of your own wardrobe, try borrowing or switching something with a friend, hitting up a charity shop or, if you’re going to buy something new, make sure you absolutely adore it.

There are brands out there making a huge effort to produce sustainably. Fabrics such as hemp, flax and nettle prove a great deal more sustainable than cotton; requiring less land and water. For example, hemp requires roughly a quarter of the amount of water and half the amount of land to grow.


At culthread, the warmth within our coats is provided by a vegan alternative to down made from 100% recycled plastic bottles. Brands such as adidas parley make shoes out of recycled ocean plastic, and Wolven Threads make activewear out of plastic bottles that end up in landfill.


When disposing of clothing, there are charities that will recycle your once loved pieces for you, such as Traid and the Salvation Army (UK based). There are also fabric recycling bins around London where you can drop off anything from sheets and curtains to socks. Locate your nearest one here.

 

girl with recycle clothing bin in shoreditch london



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Real vs. faux fur - how to tell the difference
March 21, 2019

Real vs. faux fur - how to tell the difference

Recent scandals have left us devastated to find that what was sold to us as fake fur by high street fashion brands is actually real fur. The sad reality is that because real fur is cheaper to produce than some high quality faux furs, it is mis-sold by manufacturers as the latter. High street brands who fail to quality control have been caught out by vigilant shoppers who

  • Separate the fur at the base to have a closer look at how it is attached. If it’s faux fur it will be attached to a mesh or threaded fabric, if it’s real it will be attached to skin.
  • Look at the tips of the hairs. If the fur is real the ends will taper to a fine point whereas the tips of faux fur will usually appear blunt or cut.
  • If you already own the item you can also perform a burn test. Cut a few hairs from the coat or accessory and hold them over a flame with a pair of tweezers. Real fur will smell like human hair when it burns whereas faux fur will smell like melting plastic (and will melt rather than singe).

These three tests will give you a more accurate idea of whether the fur is real or fake than judging by the price or feel of the garment. Having searched far and wide for the highest quality faux furs on the market to make our Culthread coats, we know all too well that man made materials can look and feel just like real animal fur.

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The power of women designing for women - by Susie Lau | Oct 24 2018
October 25, 2018

The power of women designing for women - by Susie Lau | Oct 24 2018

The importance of the female gaze in fashion - women are carving out their own niche, "designing for practical needs as well as whimsical desires".

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